Director: Iván Mora Manzano
Release Year: 2021
Title in English: The Beach of Enchaquirados
Synopsis:
"La Playa de los Enchaquirados" (2021), directed by Iván Mora Manzano, is a captivating documentary that delves deep into the daily life and intimate experiences of the transgender community in the small coastal village of Engabao, Ecuador. The film, celebrated for its nuanced portrayal of gender and sexual diversity, invites viewers to explore the complexities of identity, longing, and resilience. Through the eyes of Vicky, a transgender woman who navigates both the demanding work of fishing and the social dynamics of running a local bar, "La Playa de los Enchaquirados" becomes more than just a documentary about gender. It is an exploration of the simple yet profound moments that shape a life lived authentically in a supportive, if unconventional, community.
In the daylight, Vicky heads out to sea to fish, an occupation that demands both physical strength and patience. As the sun sets, she transforms her role into that of a bar owner on the blustery beach, where she serves drinks and shares stories with the other fishermen. Through these routines, the film highlights the subtle yet pervasive sense of unfulfilled desire that marks much of her existence. Yet, there is also warmth—an undercurrent of liberation that radiates through her character and the people around her. Vicky, with her gentle presence and unspoken wisdom, embodies a resilient spirit that contrasts beautifully with the harshness of her environment. The quiet solitude of the beach, the stillness of the sea, and the collective quietude of the community all speak to a deeper yearning for connection and understanding.
The documentary’s narrative focuses on observing rather than explaining. It does not seek to answer why Engabao, a rural fishing community on the coast of Ecuador, is so accepting of transgender women. Instead, it captures the everyday rhythm of life, where gender identity is neither an anomaly nor a source of conflict. This absence of tension stands out in contrast to much of the world’s struggles with gender acceptance. In Engabao, Vicky and others like her live their lives without the looming threat of rejection. Here, people simply exist as they are—fishermen and fisherwomen, trans and cis, living side by side in a kind of tacit understanding. This gentle acceptance reflects a quiet resistance to the pervasive machismo that often governs other parts of Ecuadorian society.
The film is not about offering sociological explanations or providing academic insights; it is about showing life as it is, unadorned and real. The film’s cinematography plays a crucial role in this approach. Mora Manzano opts for still shots that observe rather than intrude, allowing the camera to settle into the scenes without actively staging them. The occasional movement of the camera follows Vicky or the other fishermen, but it remains largely stationary, reflecting the slow rhythm of life by the sea. There is no voiceover, no artificial framing to dictate the narrative. Instead, viewers are invited to form their own understanding of the characters’ world, one where silence and the sound of the waves fill the space between moments.
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The beauty of "La Playa de los Enchaquirados" lies in its ability to depict the ordinary with extraordinary sensitivity. The film captures intimate details that invite viewers into the personal lives of its characters. Vicky is portrayed as both tough and tender, her physical presence a juxtaposition of labor and femininity. Her calloused hands, from years of fishing, and the strength required to manage a bar contrast with her delicate mannerisms and the grace with which she carries herself. The documentary lovingly captures her wearing a mint green pair of boots with a faded floral blouse, a subtle yet powerful image of individuality in a world that often demands conformity.
Equally significant is Vicky’s relationship with the other transgender women in the community, such as Rosalinda, who reflects on her experiences as a mother. These moments of candid conversation shed light on the lived reality of being a transgender person in Ecuador. The documentary, while showcasing their personal struggles and dreams, emphasizes the collective beauty and strength found in these communities. Here, gender expression is not policed by societal norms but is a shared, celebrated part of life.
The title "La Playa de los Enchaquirados" itself carries historical significance. The term "enchaquirado" refers to the use of "chaquiras" (beads) in the traditional Manteño-Huancavilca society, where some men who engaged in same-sex relationships held a religious role. In the modern context, the term has been embraced by the LGBTQ+ community, and the women in Engabao, many of whom are trans, reclaim this cultural heritage as part of their identity. However, the documentary does not delve deeply into this historical background. Instead, it presents a snapshot of the present moment in Engabao, allowing the audience to experience the vibrancy and complexity of life in this village without feeling the need to explain every nuance. It’s a world where old labels no longer apply and where community is built on mutual respect and shared humanity. The beauty of "La Playa de los Enchaquirados" is in its lack of forced explanations. Iván Mora Manzano’s direction allows the characters’ lives to speak for themselves. There are no grand speeches or overt displays of resistance against the outside world’s prejudice. Instead, there are quiet moments—Vicky and Rosalinda chatting about life and love, or Vicky being referred to as both "brother" and "sister" without discrimination. These subtle interactions are the heart of the documentary, showing that acceptance is not always loud but can be found in the unspoken exchanges of daily life.
By the end of the film, as Vicky and Rosalinda sit together, talking about their past loves and future hopes, we are reminded of the universal human experiences that transcend gender.
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The conversation is not just about being transgender; it is about being human, about feeling and yearning, loving and living, with all the imperfections that come with it. It is a deeply human encounter that transcends cultural or social boundaries. And as they speak, we see not just two women navigating the complexities of their identity but two people who, like all of us, are searching for connection, understanding, and peace.
In the context of Ecuador, where traditional machismo often clashes with emerging gender diversity, Engabao presents a rare example of acceptance and harmony. It’s a place where the simple act of living becomes a quiet act of resistance. And through Iván Mora Manzano’s lens, "La Playa de los Enchaquirados" invites us into a world that is both foreign and familiar—one that challenges preconceived notions and reminds us of the power of community, love, and self-expression. The film’s impact is in its ability to make us feel, to understand, and, ultimately, to empathize with a way of life that is both remarkable and, in many ways, profoundly ordinary.
In this way, "La Playa de los Enchaquirados" is not just a documentary about trans women or LGBTQ+ communities; it is a film about how we all inhabit the world together, how we can live and love freely, without fear, and how in the simplest of moments, we find our truest selves.
Image credits: YouTube
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